Apr 26, 2006

Julia Child of Kerala

Well, there were days when I used to think boiling water and making tea made me a good cook. I was in Bangalore staying in a house with a kitchen (earlier, kitchens never existed in a house, only the dining table) and had to learn to cook the hard-hard way.

I didn’t know sambar needed toor dal. I had seen vegetables floating in it and thought oh ok, sambar is easy - cut all vegetables, add water, cook. I thought the yellow tinge is from the turmeric. And I even had the guts to serve it to friends. They never came back, of course. Oh I could curdle the curd curry to shame. I would add 3 tsp of turmeric to 1 cup of curry, and I thought my mom was really stingy in using her spices. I could boil the curries to death until you see one big sorry mush. I could make egg curry in water. Yes, I would add 2 boiled eggs, 4 tsp of garam masala (No, I cannot be stingy like my mom) and 4 cups of water and had the audacity to call it egg curry. I didn’t even know sugar won’t dissolve in cold water. I would add sugar to tang with ice cubes and would serve the sour tang. I would splutter mustard seeds on every curry. If you just had a spoonful of curry in your hand too, I would splutter mustard on them. I liked the "sshhhh" sound of it and the smell. That sound was like lunch/dinner bell back home.

I would call up my mom and ask for recipes, and she would yell at me saying "Oh My God! Who told you to cook? I am scared you wont switch off the gas stove properly. Don't even go near the kitchen. It is dangerous."

My mom had told me she too learned cooking the hard way. As a new bride she made chicken, she put chicken on the stove and started chatting. Well, the chicken charred, but her friends stayed. They said carbon is good for the body and ate the charred chicken. My friends were not that nice. Well, like mother like daughter, eh? Well, my mean friends started teasing me like anything and I was adamant I will learn cooking. I went to a bookshop at Brigade Road in Bangalore and got the first book I saw.I started to cook, slowly. The hard part was to translate all the English to Malayalam. I knew the vegetables only by Malayalam names. But I learned. My friends returned slowly with a wide grin on their mean faces. They would eat my curries and laugh like anything. They didn’t leave abruptly like the first time.I had never even heard of a Mrs. K.M. Mathew then.Then, one fine day I found her and then I started to love cooking, started to cook in a better way. She even taught me how to bake delicious fruit cakes.Mrs. K.M. Mathew is without a doubt the Julia Child of Kerala. Mrs K.M Mathew has authored around 21 cook books starting from 1953 I guess.Her cooking style is Central Kerala.It is a known fact that, if you give even papaya skin to women in central Kerala, they would cook up delicious dishes in minutes. Well I am too from central Kerala,but there are exceptions for everything you know.

In U.S I was introduced to this frail old lady through my television set. She was honest and funny in her cooking shows without any airs. I loved her! If she drops something on the floor while cooking, she would say, “Oh, it doesn’t matter, just wash it and use it”. She would say, use real butter, we need flavor - not margarine or cheap imitations. She lived to 91. So I know it is not the butter or the so called fats, it is ‘moderation’ that is going to make you live healthy.

My friends came for a get together last year and I prepared lunch for them (I am good at heart you see, even when their mean laughter were ringing in my ears). After lunch, they said, “Hmm…you have learned to cook”. Well that’s the ultimate compliment I can get from those mean brutal hearts!

When my aunt visited us last time, she nearly had a heart attack seeing me cook. " Mole, you didnt even know a spoon from a fork, and look at you now" - Well,well..ahem..I put on a humble face even when my head was hitting the roof :-)

2 comments:

Inji Pennu said...

10 Comments:
At 26/4/06 12:17 PM, renuramanath said...
hi L.G.
chanced upon your blog just today, why i missed it all along i don't know. may be i was busy throughout april.
oops ! about me. a fellow mallu, but living very much in mallu-land, in kochi. an avid food blog reader, not yet a poster (hahaha). as mad about indira's mahanandi as you (or better, even). she's simply fantastic.
really enjoyed reading your culinary adventures. i too had had a starting like that.
i never learnt cooking from home, but started out of necessity. my mother had believed in that. to, 'why dont you teach your girls to cook ?' her stock answer was 'They will learn, when the need comes.' and, learn we did. and not bad at that.
but,these days, i don't do much cooking. my hubby has taken over the kitchen. he's, welll, a chef, not a mere cook and whips up everything from a toast and tea to a sadya for 25 people in a jiffy.
ain't i lucky !
well, keep the kitchen fires burning.
long live the kerala food !
renu

At 26/4/06 12:36 PM, Immigrant in Canada said...
we have so much in common.. I remember my first moru and it didn't have the nice yellow colour and I kept adding, till the nice colour point is reached,.. then I cooked..wow..tht was yellow!!!
I also packed and stuffed the puttu kutty with flour...and my mos soaked it for few days to remove the rock solid mess inside.

At 26/4/06 1:26 PM, Kitchenmate said...
LG: My heart goes to you brave girl.. see you did it. I am not sure whether i am visiting you for the first time, Good blog with very interesting way of writing. Would come here very often buddy. You have cool blog going:)

At 26/4/06 2:31 PM, Garam Masala said...
LG: What an honest post this was! I can so easily connect with the cooking episodes you have described -- taking cooking for granted and struggling when your results are not as expected.

I think the main tool in cooking if you don't already have a natural understanding with the ingredients is - patience. To learn and practice :) I am learning both skills right now.

I'm glad you have reached a level of culinary expertise that look can look back and be proud!

Keep writing!

At 26/4/06 3:37 PM, RP said...
Discovered your blog just now. Happy to see some familiar words & pictures... I love kadachakka/breadfruit, but don't know where to buy good ones in the USA. I will come back to read more from your blog.

At 26/4/06 3:41 PM, Gini said...
Sure she is! I just love the taste of all her recipes. I have a couple of her cookbooks that I didn't use till recently. I had once met her when in Kottayam when I was in high school, little did I know that I will be cooking from her cookbooks.

At 26/4/06 6:17 PM, L G said...
renuramanath I am jealous...
you married a chef! Is he famous? Does he come in any cookery shows on TV? Yeah, somehow moms dont realise the struggle we have to go through to make a dish. I really wish I had the basics. It would have been so much easy.My mom's logic was, why give her kid more responsibilities? She still would love to freeze me in as a 5 year old.

immigrantincanda your puttukutti episode is hilarious! Maybe you should write about your cooking episodes. I would love to read it.

kitchenmateThank you. You are so nice. Your kid is sooo cute.
How do you cook with him around?

garammasala Thank you so much for your kind words.

rp Try some caribbean or West Indies store or even Oriental stores. They all cook with this.

giniYou met her?Wow! She is such a legend.

At 27/4/06 3:30 PM, renuramanath said...
L.G.
No, he's not exactly a chef, but an artist, a painter. On his way to fame. he just had his solo show in mumbai, which was a roaring success. he finished ten huge paintings in one month. he'd work for ten hours a day, then come home and cook. i at first though of finding a cook for us, as i can't do much cooking by myself, but soon realised that was his way of relaxing.

many artists are fantastic cooks. and even the recipe books by some masters have been published. may be mine too would, one day.

keep in touch,
cheers,
renu.

At 11/5/06 10:22 AM, Nandita said...
Came to your blog through the Garden project link- and whoa- it's rocking out here!
I just loved this write up on comedy of errors in your earlier years in the kitchen, esp loved the "being stingy with spices bit" -Absolutely Hilarious

As regards garden project, Im trying to grow some stuff in my balcony- have the Mullai, jasmine, omum (bishop's weed), mint, holy basil and a plant whose name i do not know- as of now.


Already blogged a recipe with mint from my pot- I would love to take part in your do- wondering just what to use !

Great style of writing LG, you've got aregular visitor in me

At 2/6/06 9:02 AM, ann said...
I have a collection of books of Mrs.K.M.Mathew. Her cooking style is mostly traditional syrian christian style. her books remain as standard for kerala cooking..atleast the christian style cooking. Her recipes are ofcourse tasty but I feel some are made without much of health consciousness. She gives importance to taste but not health. She uses lot of oil, vinegar etc..However, The best book I like is 'Flavours of the Spice Cost'..which has a wonderful collection of authentic recipes.

crispus said...

Hi! As an avid blog reader..i chanced upon this particular blog today....and i just couldnt help laughing my head off...esp when i learnt to make a decent puttu only after all these years! and all that curdling curd to shame,i too did the same and yellowed the 'moru' to glory..ofcourse stacking puttu to solid hardness as well..Guess its the same for all us ladies who learnt to cook the hard way..:-
And to think I went thru all that with the thorough conviction that i am very much a 'chef' at heart! :-D
Wishing ya'll a happy new year !